Harris Tweed

 

Harris Tweed

All images courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

By law, Harris Tweed must be produced only in the Outer Hebrides. Although it is named after the island of Harris, it is also created in the other islands of Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra. Most of the wool comes from sheep on the mainland of Scotland with some added from Outer Hebridean sheep. It is first dyed and then spun before being woven on treadle looms by the islanders in their homes into lengths of material.

Harris Tweed garments claim to be warm in winter and cool in summer, water-resistant and hard-wearing.

Household urine used to be used both in ‘fixing’ the various dyes and in removing any residual oiliness in the material. It was also used to shrink the cloth to a width of exactly 29 inches. A big pee tub, which was a large barrel with a lid, was a standard fixture in island homes and visitors were encouraged to add to the supply. More details can be found in Sally Magnusson’s book, ‘Life of Pee’.

 This book is a cornucopia of information,. a book to be dipped into at will, or read from cover to cover.

                                    Treadle loom in an islander's  home

This method was used until the end of the 20^th century. Be aware if you stand next to someone wearing ‘old’ Harris Tweed on a warm day, though the smell is said to be not unpleasant. Harris Tweed produced in the 21^st century will not carry any such aroma, as modern products are now used to counteract any oiliness that may remain in the material.

There are so many people and processes involved in the production of Harris Tweed. First comes the rearing and shearing of the sheep, and then the dyeing and spinning into yarn. The natural dyes that used to be used are now no longer available on the islands because the vegetation is protected. Next comes the weaving and after that the finishing, when the material is washed and any imperfections are corrected.  Finally, the material has the official certification mark ironed on to the reverse or sewn onto a finished item, like a cap.

       

Harris Tweed is manufactured in different weights – superfine, featherweight and mediumweight – and can be used in a variety of ways. In its many colourways and patterns, from herringbone to plaid, it can be used in a variety of ways, from clothing to footwear, accessories to soft furnishings. 

Harris Tweed is considered a luxury fabric – a metre of cloth can cost about £132 – but the price is not exorbitant when it is taken into consideration how many individuals are involved in its unique production.