Straying thoughts

 

Straying thoughts

‘In the spring a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love,’ runs a line from Alfred, Lord Tennyson’s poem 'Locksley Hall.'  I might counter that with, ‘In the autumn an old man’s fancy darkly turns to thoughts of death.’ Morbid, no?          

No, not really. Something caught my eye and started me thinking about mourning jewellery. It dates back to the 17^th century but became popular, particularly in England, during the Georgian era (1714-1837) so called after the Hanoverian Kings George I, II, III and IV (not much imagination shown in the naming of kings!) and William IV. William reigned for a relatively short time (1830-1837)

                   Georgian mourning ring, gold with pearls and hair insert

                                     Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons

Mourning jewellery was created as a way to commemorate the beloved dead and show them respect. It became extremely popular in the 19^th century, when Prince Albert died and was so markedly mourned by his widow, Queen Victoria.

Mourning was subject to complex rules of etiquette, covering how long the mourning period should last, and what apparel and jewellery should be worn. With the Georgian emphasis on ‘Memento Mori,’ (‘remember that you must die’ – so cheerful!) people were encouraged to live their lives as fully and as well as they could.

The symbols they chose to adorn the jewellery often included skulls and hourglasses, reminding the wearers of the transience of life. Weeping willows and urns also featured, the willows with their trailing branches as symbols of grief.  Some jewellery also held miniature portraits of the dear departed and it was quite usual to put a lock of hair in a locket or ring.

The materials used included jet, onyx, enamel, or gold. 

                            Victorian mourning brooch with hair

Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons

Other than lockets, jewellery might take the form of a ring, earrings, a brooch, a bracelet, a pendant or even a tie pin. Sentimentality became evident in Victorian symbols, with angels and clouds becoming more prominent than skulls. Wealthier families would set their jewellery with precious gems. Turquoise indicated ‘thinking of you,’ and children were often commemorated with pearls, because pearls represented tears.

                        Mourning earrings made from metal and human hair

Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons

 The dress code was very strict, especially for women. Black had to be worn for the first two or three years of deep mourning, complete with black veils, gloves and shoes. This was succeeded by ordinary mourning, with was black dresses without veils, moving onto light mourning of lilac, purple or grey. Queen Victoria went into deep mourning for five years after Albert died, and never really emerged from her grief, wearing sombre colours for the rest of her life.

There is a thriving market in antique mourning jewellery.

Georgian mourning brooch with garnets and pearls containing hair from the deceased. One similar to this has been offered on sale for £995.00. The idea of wearing this fills me with horror.

Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons

Modern mourning jewellery is created with ‘cremains,’ the ashes of a cremated body. Although the whole idea makes me feel a little queasy, I understand that it might bring a measure of comfort to the bereaved.  

As a complete contrast, but equally unsettling, to me anyway, is the advent of breast milk jewellery. This trend started around 2007 and became very popular about six years later. There is more information here and here, maybe too much information.